The majority of local women in Chitral identify embroidery motifs by the components of leaves (chan) and flowers (chut).  However, motifs consist of other shapes such as birds and sheep reflecting the significance of embroidery in the local life of all Chitrali’s.  Motifs comprised of nature and geometrical shapes are locally understood to have come from Central Asia; however, the names by which the motifs are identified are local. 

Designs created in Chitral are inspired by Islamic, Indian, Irani and Chitrali motifs.  Motifs inspired from wildlife, flowers, trees, leaves, vines, paisleys, etc. are also used in abundance. 

Some of the stitches and motifs identified locally are follows: 

Shathahi

Outline of a motif using black thread by cross stitching is called shathahi.  It provides a base for the embroidery.  Shathahi is recognized by prominent black lining separating various parts of the motif once an embroidered item is filled in.  

Most of the stitches in Chitrali embroidery are in Iraqi in which the needle is drawn close together.  It is a direct way of embroidering a motif without making an outline such as shathahi.  In this way, there remain no lines between different parts of a motif such as leaves (chan) and flowers (chut).  In Iraqi, every motif is carefully constructed and filled with a very particular selection of colors as specified by nature.  Flowers were colored in red and leaves in green, and this color selection was followed as closely as possible. 

Less experienced women find it difficult to embroider Iraqi (the direct way of filling a motif).  Instead, they choose to draw an outline to make it easier to fill the motif.  However, instead of using cross stitches, running stitches are used so that the lining does not remain prominent once a motif is filled.  Nowadays, the Sindhi stitch is becoming more prominent as it is easier than the Iraqi stitch.

Mushkali is literally translated as “difficult”.  The reason being that the entire width and length of a given piece is completely covered in intricate stitches.  Mushkali is time consuming task and is endeavored by the most skilled of artisans. 

Depending on the pattern of the cloth and size of the article, single (ishuthri), double (jushuthri) and four (churshuthri) threads of the cloth are covered in a single stitch.  The greater the number of the threads and the broader the cloth pattern the larger the motif and vice versa.